This time last summer, we were in full preparation and training mode for our summer "adventure." Most people don't "train" for a vacation; however, most people don't plan to spend their vacation bicycling over 200 miles and living out of a bag strapped to their bicycle. No, most people plan vacation to relax. We planned a vacation that we knew would kick our asses. You see, the plan was to ride our bicycles from the southern most point of the Outer Banks that was connected by a ferry to the most northern point, turn around, and return the same route.
The plan was to enjoy all the little towns along the way, stop as we wanted, shop as we wanted, drink as we wanted, and have fun. Weelllll.....that's not exactly how it all happened. First of all, as much as I'd planned, I didn't plan nearly enough. As much as I thought I knew about our destinations and trip, I didn't know anything. For all the research I'd done, aerial pictures I'd studied, and preparations I'd made, nothing ever made me realize that there was a very good reason that the Wright Brothers chose the Outer Banks for their first flight...the wind! Those 237 miles (yes, I know the exact mileage; it's tattooed on my arm) broke me down, destroyed my body, and somehow taught me more than any vacation or challenge ever.
Aside from never imagining the wind to be as relentless and fierce, I went into the adventure with a very unrealistic romantic view of the Outer Banks. Not every island and town in the Outer Banks is as Nicholas Sparks-y as I would have liked. However, there were plenty of things that we saw and did that I think are worth sharing and encouraging. We've never been a family that lined up at amusement parks for vacations, so this one was certainly not going to either.
Our original plan was to bicycle from Ocracoke to Corolla, where wild mustang territory begins, but due to the unfortunate motel mishap in Salvo on the second night, we decided to adjust our mileage and end in Kitty Hawk. With that said, I would still like to visit Corolla, the Currituck Lighthouse, and see the wild mustangs, but we did enough on this adventure.
Lighthouses
Ocracoke Lighthouse: Free to see, but due to the fact that it is still used by the community, it is not open to climb. The entire are of Ocracoke is reminiscent of an old fishing village, and for some reason, at the lighthouse, I felt like I was in an early American-Puritan village in New England.
Hatteras Lighthouse: Free to see and explore the grounds, but to climb the light, tickets are $8. Climbers are sent to ascend the steps in small groups to prevent crowds. Prior to climbing, groups are assembled and given a brief history of the lighthouse, including its move in 1999, which moved the lighthouse and it's auxillary buildings to a safer distance from the encroaching ocean.
Bodie Island Lighthouse: Again, free to see and explore the grounds, but to climb and the tour are $8. In all cases, children and senior citizens enjoy discounts.
Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse: Not your typical lighthouse towering above the ground, shining its light for approaching ships. No, the Roanoke Marshes light is a small building at the end of a dock in the Roanoke Sound. Granted, the Roaoke Marshes Lighthouse is a replica of an earlier lighthouse and serves as more of ceremonial building; however, it is still a great place to visit.
As a bonus, I hoped to find a dinner cruise or something similar. What I found was the Downeast Rover in Manteo, a beautiful 55 foot topsail schooner sailing Roanoke Sound. For two people who'd just bicycled nearly 100 miles, a 2 hour sail, was just what the doctor ordered. We were encouraged to bring our own wine and snacks, which we did willingly. The sail was magnificent--peaceful, quiet, relaxing--and the ship's crew, Mason (first mate) and Brian (captain) were kind, helpful, accommodating, and knowledgeable. Before you think that this little outing had to be pricey, it wasn't; for the 3pm sailing, it was $30pp and the sunset sailings would have been $40pp.
If you're a Nicholas Sparks fan, and you've seen Nights in Rodanthe, then you can't go through the Outer Banks without stopping in Rodanthe to see the house. No, it's not an inn where you can rent a room for the night. HOWEVER, it looks just as it did in the movie...blue shutters and all.
Most Americans know who the Wright Brothers were. Most know that their first flight was in Kitty Hawk. The Wright Brothers Memorial is more than I ever expected. I'm not sure what I expected, but I didn't expect it to be a huge hill with a monument and museum. It was breath-taking. We rode our bikes in and parked at the base of the hill and climbed it. Wow! What a haul. If you have back or knee or breathing difficulties, the climb might be a challenge. Some of the incline is pretty steep. However, if you can make it to the top, the view, the scope of the area, and realizing that you're standing where 30 sec changed the world, are all amazingly inspiring. Like many things in the Outer Banks, the memorial is managed through the National Park Service, so it's quite affordable at $4pp
A part of our side trip and the Downeast Rover sailing included happening on the old town are of Manteo. We had no idea that this area existed. Yes, I'd read that there were shops and restaurants near the docks and marina, but I didn't expect it to look very similar to Williamsburg. There's even a craft brewery in the old town area--Front Street Brewery. It doesn't have quite as many shops as Williamsburg, but the marina, shops, inn, and brewery were worth the 18 mile bike ride.
